SKU: 52828362741
69686 philodendron

69686 philodendron Philodendron 'Bette Waterbury' ('69686') – Foliage Factory

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Description

69686 philodendron Philodendron 'Bette Waterbury' ('69686') – Foliage FactoryPhilodendron Bette Waterbury 69686 Philodendron Bette Waterbury, still widely known in cultivation as Philodendron 69686, develops deeply three lobed leaves with a long, narrow central lobe and slim side lobes spreading from the upper part of the blade. This cultivated hybrid has unknown original provenance and was formally published under the cultivar name Philodendron Bette Waterbury; 69686 remains widely used as its collection and trade reference.

Philodendron ‘Bette Waterbury’ 69686

Philodendron ‘Bette Waterbury’, still widely known in cultivation as Philodendron 69686, develops deeply three-lobed leaves with a long, narrow central lobe and slim side lobes spreading from the upper part of the blade.

This cultivated hybrid has unknown original provenance and was formally published under the cultivar name Philodendron ‘Bette Waterbury’; 69686 remains widely used as its collection and trade reference. Mature growth carries short internodes, long cataphylls, dark green petioles and semi-glossy divided blades. As the stem climbs, the leaves can gain size and show the narrow-lobed shape more clearly.

Philodendron ‘Bette Waterbury’ leaf shape and growth habit

  • Leaf shape: Deeply three-lobed blades with a long central lobe and narrow, spreading lateral lobes.
  • Growth habit: Scandent vine with short internodes and aerial roots along the climbing stem.
  • Name note: Philodendron ‘Bette Waterbury’ is the cultivar name; 69686 is the collection and trade reference.
  • Leaf texture: Mature blades are dark green, semi-glossy and firm-textured.

How Philodendron ‘Bette Waterbury’ leaves mature

Philodendron ‘Bette Waterbury’ was found in the Roberto Burle Marx collection and introduced into cultivation in the United States by Bette Waterbury.

A settled specimen can produce longer petioles, thicker stems and better-defined lobes than a juvenile plant. The narrow central lobe becomes the dominant part of the blade, while the side lobes sit at a wide angle near the base.

Philodendron ‘Bette Waterbury’ support and climbing care

  • Support: Add a moss pole, plank, or textured stake early so aerial roots can attach as the stem lengthens.
  • Light: Give bright filtered light. Direct sun can mark the leaf surface, while very dim placement slows leaf size development.
  • Watering: Water when roughly the upper 25–35% of the pot has dried. The roots need moisture with air around them, not a constantly wet pot.
  • Substrate: Use a chunky aroid mix with bark, perlite, coco chips, pumice, or similar mineral pieces so roots can breathe between waterings.
  • Humidity: Moderate to higher humidity helps new lobed leaves unfurl cleanly during active growth.
  • Temperature: Keep it warm, ideally around 18–28°C, and protect it from cold draughts and chilled windows.
  • Repotting: Move it up one pot size when roots fill the container or the plant dries too quickly after watering.
  • Fertilizing: Feed lightly during active growth with a balanced houseplant fertilizer, avoiding heavy doses on dry roots.
  • Propagation: Propagate from stem cuttings with at least one node; aerial-root sections usually establish fastest.
  • Pruning: Trim long or uneven stems above a node if you need to control height or encourage a cleaner climbing shape.
  • Semi-hydroponics: Suitable for mineral or semi-hydro setups if the cutting or rooted plant is transitioned gradually and the crown stays above the reservoir line.

Philodendron ‘Bette Waterbury’ leaf and root problems

  • Small new leaves: Usually linked to weak light, no climbing surface, or an underfed root system. Improve light and give the aerial roots something to attach to.
  • Yellow lower leaves: Check the root zone first. A dense or wet mix can hold too much water around the lower stem.
  • Damaged new growth: If leaves tear while opening, raise humidity slightly and keep the support lightly moist during active root attachment without keeping the pot constantly wet.
  • Stem lean: A larger plant can become top-heavy. Secure the stem loosely before it pulls away from its support.

Philodendron ‘Bette Waterbury’ contains irritating calcium oxalate crystals and should be kept away from pets. Wear gloves when cutting stems if your skin reacts easily to aroid sap.

Philodendron ‘Bette Waterbury’ etymology and cultivar history

The genus name Philodendron comes from Greek roots meaning “tree-loving”. Philodendron ‘Bette Waterbury’ was formally published as a cultivar name by T.B. Croat in Aroideana in 2022, honouring Bette Waterbury, the first President of the International Aroid Society.

Order Philodendron ‘Bette Waterbury’ 69686 online for a climbing Philodendron with deeply lobed mature leaves.

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Reviewed in the United States on March 25, 2026
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Amazon Customer
Carnegie, US
★★★★★ 1
Very glitchy mouse won't accept clicks, made me reinstall windows
Color: White
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The only way I could find to get rid of that phantom click is by pressing CTRL+ALT+DEL every time the computer wakes. This resets the phantom click and the mouse would function normally. But it's super annoying to have to press CTRL+ALT+DEL every time the PC wakes, especially since this mouse is supposed to be a gift to my little girl, I don't want her to have to deal with it not working perfectly. Also the mouse would sometimes stop accepting clicks even in the middle of playing games, but this only happened rarely in Bluetooth mode. On the wireless USB mode: The mouse cursor is NOT visible when windows first boots. You can't use the mouse to get to the box to type your PIN number to unlock the computer. You must use the keyword to get into windows, and then the cursor appears. This problem doesn't happen when using the mouse in Bluetooth mode, only in the wireless USB mode. And then the phantom click issue is MUCH more frequent in the wireless USB mode, and doesn't require the computer to wake from sleep, but happens randomly even in the middle of playing games... suddenly you can't click anything. And when waking from sleep, or when the mouse "goes to sleep", when it wakes up there's issues with clicks... and sometimes the cursor isn't even visible. Connecting a second mouse: When the computer stops accepting clicks, then even the second mouse would not be able to click. All connected mouses would stop being able to click. But this problem of not being able to click, would ONLY occur if the Razor Orochi V2 mouse was connected to the computer either via Bluetooth or wireless USB. If I disconnected the Orochi V2 mouse, then the problem never happens. So it's definitely this mouses's fault. But initially I didn't realize this mouse was the culprit. Because it affected all connected mice. 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