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seeds & bulbs rose

seeds & bulbs rose Rock 'n' Roll Rose Seedlings Flower Seeds Perennial Growing Bonsai Co – Easytogrowbulb

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seeds & bulbs rose Rock 'n' Roll Rose Seedlings Flower Seeds Perennial Growing Bonsai Co – EasytogrowbulbAbout this item How to Grow Roses from Seeds Step 1: Treat Rose Seeds Rose seeds need a much longer germination period than many flowers. If you arent careful, this extended moist storage can lead to the growth of molds that can threaten young rose seedlings. To prevent fungus spores from growing, you can destroy them with hydrogen peroxide. Add one half tablespoon of 3% hydrogen peroxide to one cup of water and soak the seeds in this solution for an

About this item

  • How to Grow Roses from Seeds

    Step 1: Treat Rose Seeds
    Rose seeds need a much longer germination period than many flowers. If you aren’t careful, this extended moist storage can lead to the growth of molds that can threaten young rose seedlings.
    To prevent fungus spores from growing, you can destroy them with hydrogen peroxide. Add one-half tablespoon of 3% hydrogen peroxide to one cup of water and soak the seeds in this solution for an hour.                                                                                                                                                                                      Step 2: Cold Germinate Seeds (Stratification)                                                        The natural rose germination process takes a few years. First, the rose hip needs to break down and decompose. After the seeds are fully exposed, they must undergo a period of stratification.Rose seed germination relies on a climate that experiences cold, moist winter months. You can simulate this winter environment using your home refrigerator.Place the rose seeds evenly spaced on a damp paper towel. Be sure to avoid overcrowding. Cover them with another layer of moist paper towels and seal the seeds in a plastic bag.Place the bag of seeds in a clean, empty crisper drawer. It would be wise to first sanitize the drawer with bleach and hot water to prevent mold contamination.Ensure the seeds remain moist throughout the entire stratification process. Add more clean water whenever they start to feel dry.Leave the seeds in the refrigerator for at least two months or until you are ready to sprout them.                                                                                                                                                                                                                     Step 3: Warm Germinate Rose Seeds
    Once the stratification process is complete, you can germinate rose seeds as you would other flowers. It is crucial to bring the seeds out of refrigeration into conditions warmer than 70 degrees.
    Ensure the seeds remain damp and leave them in a warm environment until they sprout. This can take up to a month, and it is likely that not all seeds will germinate.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  Step 4: Plant Rose Sprouts
    Add moistened seed-starter soil mix to seedling trays. Make a slight indentation for the rose seeds in each cell.
    The tiny tendrils that emerge are roots and must be handled very carefully. Gently remove the rose sprouts from the paper towel and place them root down in the seed trays.
    Cover the seeds with moist soil and leave the seed trays on a sunny windowsill. Use a clean spray bottle to mist the rose seedlings when they start to feel dry.
    For the best results, consider using Hoss Tools Deluxe Seed Starting Kit. This kit includes a 24-cell seed starting tray with a dome lid, seed-starter soil mix, fertilizer, and more.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  Step 5: Transplant Rose Seedlings
    As the rose seedlings grow, pay close attention to the seed leaves so you know when to transplant. Wait until the true leaves develop, which take on the typical rose leaf appearance.
    Gently loosen the dirt from the tray cells and slide the seedlings free. Move them to individual containers and let them continue to grow for about a year before you transplant them outdoors.

  • Caring for Young Rose Plants

    Give your rose seedlings the support they need to grow strong stems and lush foliage. Add half-strength fertilizer to each planting location.
    Not all fertilizers are equal. Use a high-quality blend like Dry Fertilizer for guaranteed results.

    • How long does it take to grow a rose from seed

      Growing roses from seeds is a lengthy process. Without proper stratification, it can take multiple years for seedlings to emerge.
      Even the fastest-growing roses will likely take two full growing seasons to produce beautiful blooms.

    • Do roses grow true to seed

      Heirloom rose varieties grow true to the parent plants, while hybrid varieties are less predictable.
      The task of growing roses from seeds is very involved. For this reason, most gardeners prefer to grow roses from cuttings.
      If you want to experiment with cross-breeding unique roses, then you need to grow them from seed.
      To get predictable results, you must control pollination. This will ensure that your homegrown roses will grow true to color.

    • How to grow roses

      All you need to know about growing roses, in our detailed Grow Guide.Roses are some of the most beautiful and versatile garden plants. They come in a variety of forms, from patio roses to shrub roses, ramblers and climbers. Nearly all of them make an excellent cut flower. Single-flowered roses are great pollinator plants, while some species are used by leafcutter bees to make their nests. Most roses need sun and heavy soils to thrive, but some will grow well in partial shade and poorer soils. There really is a rose, or three, for every garden.Key points about growing roses
      Most roses thrive in full sun.Roses need rich, moist but well-drained soil.Water roses regularly so the soil stays moist but not waterloggedRoses are hungry plants. Mulch annually with organic matter such as well-rotted animal manure, and consider using a rose feed to promote flowering in summer.Prune roses annually to promote healthy growth, control the shape and encourage flowering
      Plant bare-root roses from November to March. Container-grown roses can be planted at any time of year.

    • How to grow shrub roses

      Shrub roses and English roses come in a huge range of sizes and colours âââ€?some can grow to 2m in height. Shrub roses are typically robust, healthy, repeat-flowering plants offering colour when other shrubs have finished flowering. Some shrub roses have a good fragrance, but if you want a scented shrub rose then English roses are for you. Shrub roses and English roses are perfect for growing in a mixed border, large container or as part of a rose garden. Some can also be trained as climbers or used to grow into a hedge.

    • How to grow climbing roses

      Climbing roses are the perfect plants to add height to a garden, without being too vigorous. There are climbing roses available in all the popular rose categories âââ€?hybrid tea roses, bourbons and English roses. Choose from double or single flowers, thornless or scented. Climbing roses can be grown up house walls, along garden fences, over pergolas or up large obelisks.

    • How to grow rambling roses

      Rambling roses are often confused with climbing roses. Ramblers are far more vigorous than climbers, and bear one fantastic flush of flowers, usually in June, followed by colourful hips. Climbing roses often repeat flower and have larger flowers.Rambling roses need plenty of space as they grow quickly. They’re ideal for growing up a tree or tumbling over a wall. They're perfect for covering an eyesore in the garden, such as an unsightly shed or out-building.A rambling rose looks great growing up into a tree, especially an apple tree, providing flowers after the apple blossom fades but before the fruits form. In this video guide from Gardeners' World, Monty Don shows you how to plant two different rambling roses âââ€?'Wedding Day' and 'Sander's White'. He details what conditions a rambling rose needs, how to prepare the soil, and how deep to plant it so it settles in well over autumn and gets off to a good start in spring. You'll also find out how far from the tree to plant the rose and how to encourage it to climb up the tree.

    • How to grow patio roses

      Patio roses are small enough to grow in pots. They are compact in habit and thrive in lighter soils than many other rose types. Patio roses are not as long lived as other types of rose, but they're easy to manage and remain compact if hard-pruned each spring.

    • How to grow ground cover roses

      Ground cover roses have a trailing or spreading habit. They're ideal for growing in a container, at the front of a border or on steep banks. Many are modern introductions have good disease resistance. If given the right conditions, ground cover roses can suppress weeds.

    • Roses to grow by colour

      Roses come in a huge variety of colours. Browse our lists of roses by colour, below, for the best one for your garden:
      Pink roses to grow
      Purple roses to grow
      Yellow roses to grow
      Beautiful red roses to grow
      Orange roses to grow

    • Growing roses in pots

      It's possible to grow roses in pots, meaning you can grow roses in even the smallest gardens. While all but rambling roses can be grown in pots, shorter growing bush varieties, or ‘patio roses', are ideal. They’ll do best in large, deep containers âââ€?an absolute minimum of 50cm in diameter and the same in depth âââ€?to keep their roots cool and moist during summer.In hot, dry weather, soak the compost every two to three days, and feed regularly.

    • What to grow with roses

      Many plants can be grown with roses to great effect. Climbing roses work well grown with clematis. Rambling roses can be trained to grow up a tree. Patio roses work well with a variety of other plants suitable for growing in pots, while shrub roses can be grown in a mixed ornamental border, alongside nepeta, lavender and other herbaceous perennials.

    • When to plant roses

      The best time to plant roses is in autumn, when the soil is warm and the water table is at its highest. Roses will establish quickly before becoming dormant, and then burst into life again in spring. Roses come as potted plants or as bare-root plants (sold without soil on the roots). Technically, you can plant a potted rose at any time of year and a bare-root rose from October to March, but autumn remains the best time to plant roses.

    • How to plant roses

      Plant roses in a well-prepared hole with added compost to improve soil structure and aid water retention. Back-fill with soil and firm in well, then water thoroughly.In this Gardeners' World programme clip, Monty Don shows you how to plant shrub roses. Watch as he plants the yellow-flowered, myrrh-scented rose 'The Pilgrim' in the Cottage Garden at Longmeadow. He explains how to prepare the soil and dig the hole, how and why you should add mycorrhizal fungi, and what rose care to provide to ensure the rose settles in well.

    • How to plant bare-root roses

      Planting bare-root roses during the dormant season is cheaper than planting container-grown roses, because the growers don't need to water and feed the plants when they're dormant, and they weigh less and take up less room when shipping. What's more, there's a far greater selection of bare root roses available to buy than container-grown roses, giving you more choice.You can plant bare-root roses at any time between October and the end of March, but planting them in autumn helps them establish more quickly because the soil is still warm from summer, and is typically moist.

    • Pruning roses

      Pruning is essential for the overall health, vitality and appearance of roses. Winter is the key time to cut back most varieties, except rambling roses, which are pruned in summer immediately after flowering.The basic principles of pruning are the same: cutting back hard will promote the strongest growth, while light pruning will result in less vigour. The other basic rules include cutting to an outward-facing bud to prevent compacted growth, and removing closely positioned stems that might rub or compete for space. Also remove stubby ‘snagsâââ€?(short, dead lengths of stem with no growth on them) and thin, twiggy stems, which are unlikely to produce anything worthwhile in terms of growth and flowering potential.

    • Growing roses: problem-solving

      Roses suffer from many problems, including black spot, aphids, die-back and bloom balling. In this Quick Tips video, Richard Jones explains why you shouldn't worry about leafcutter bees damaging your rose leaves:Find more solutions to rose growing problems, below.
      Rose problems solved
      Trouble-free roses
      How can I stop die-back on roses?
      Rose black spot
      Rose bloom-balling

    Why Seedsplant ?

    • Experts in the field
    • Family owned and operated - 100 years
    • Rigorous quality control
    • We strive for your success by offering the bulb size you need
    • Affordable quality

    Flower Bulb Facts of Life

    Bulbs: Beauty In a Bottle:

    Bulbs are a natural product. And, as such, follow a natural cycle of growth and rebirth. Enjoying their fabulous flowers means planting ahead in one season then results the next. Bulbs are among the easiest flowers to grow, not only are they affordable, but bulbs offer the most stunning colors available. Even the most novice gardener can create a breathtakingly beautiful spring garden with bulbs.

    What's a Bulb?

    A flower bulb is really a self-contained flower factory. Within this marvelous little package is nearly everything the flower needs to come to life! Split a bulb open, for instance, and you'll see its baby flower bud, leaves, roots, stem and food supply. All bulbs need from you is to be placed in the ground at the appropriate season of year, given a liberal drink of water then left to work their magic.

    Variety:

    Flower bulbs come in seemingly limitless varieties which makes them perfectly suitable for any garden design you can dream up.

    Is It a bulb ?

    The Difference Between Bulbs, Corms, Tubers, Roots,Today, people commonly us the term 'bulb' to refer to any plant that stores its own food underground. But, in truth, many popular 'bulbs' are not true bulbs at all. These include corms, tubers and roots and, while they all produce beautiful flowers, technically the plants are different

    When To Plant

    In fall, after soil temperatures are below 50ºF/10ºC. These bulbs bloom the following spring and require the cold winter temperatures for development. But let's say winter arrives and your bulbs are still in their bag. Not to worry! Bulbs are pre-programmed to grow so even if you have to plant through snow, plant your bulbs!

    How To Plant

    Most bulbs thrive in either full or partial sun and in almost any location with good drainage. Avoid planting at the base of hills or under drainage pipes where water collects and will rot the bulbs.

    • Dig a hole
    • Drop in the bulb
    • Water thoroughly

    Tips For success

    • A larger grouping of flower bulbs are far more fab than just a few planted here and there. Think clumps of color.
    • Buy the largest bulbs you can find.
    • Note the flowering times. Not all bulbs will bloom at the same time. A little planning will greatly increase the number of months you will enjoy bulb flowers.

    Passionate About bulbs

    Generally speaking, the best predictor for gardening success is bulb size. Almost always, the larger the initial bulb size planted, the larger and stronger the plants will be, producing more flowers. The first year end result will be noticeable to anyone.The best predictor for gardening success is bulb size.

    Shipping

    All items are shipped usually within 2 working days (usually sooner) except plug plants. Plants only dispatch Monday-Thursday to avoid problems with live plants sitting in a postal depot over the weekend. During busy periods , due to the nature of product and extra care needed when packing and preparing for post, please allow up to 7 days for delivery (depending on day purchased). Plants are only dispatched when crops are ready to travel , therefore some multi orders may be delivered separately and occasionally it may be necessary to hold back dispatch until plants are ready. Shipping is either via Post  or 24/48 Hour courier depending on order size/weight etc. at our discretion. Please be patient when ordering plants as you cannot rush nature. Please be aware delivery dates shown by Seedsplant are estimates only and do not apply to live plant orders. Any orders returned to us by Post or Courier will incur a further postage charge to resend.

    Returs

    You may return all unopened items within 14 days of delivery for a full refund less P&P charges. Any items received damaged in transit must be notified in writing/email within 24 hours of receipt. Live plants should arrive in perfect condition , If however for some reason they do not please contact us immediately upon receipt. A full refund including original P&P will be made for any items not as described or wrong part no etc. All returns must include your full details with a copy of original receipt. You may cancel any transaction as long as notice is received before item(s) are / have been dispatched.

    Contact us

    You can message us through Seedsplant messages , otherwise You can write to us by email :[email protected]

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    4.5 ★★★★★
    Based on 158 reviews
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    Charlotte
    Louisville, US
    ★★★★★ 5
    Read Projection of the Astral Body, and Get More Restful Sleep!
    Format: Paperback
    Sylvan Muldoon's Projection of the Astral Body can best be described as a great eye-opener. It is highly useful for the general public-i.e. for anyone who sleeps. But it is especially helpful to those curious about what happens during sleep, and those who want to sleep more adequately. It has my highest recommendation. Charlotte E. Sere The Stakes: Three Plays of the Black Experience to Heal, to Train, to Entertain
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    Reviewed in the United States on September 11, 2014
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    Kathleen McMahon
    West Palm Beach, US
    ★★★★★ 5
    Interesting, Detail-oriented, Clean copy
    Format: Paperback
    Interesting Read. Lots of first-hand accounts by author.
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    Reviewed in the United States on March 3, 2021
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    Kim Cabrera
    Pawtucket, US
    ★★★★★ 5
    All trackers need this book! Worth every penny!
    Format: Kindle
    This review is for the Kindle edition of this book. Wow. All I can say is wow. The first edition was phenomenal. The second edition, if you can believe it, improves on the first dramatically! I never thought I’d say there could be a better tracking book than the first one. But, here it is. There is no one I know of in the tracking community that is better qualified to write this book than Mark Elbroch and Casey McFarland. The tracking community is small and everyone tends to know everyone else. We all know that these guys are the true experts in this field. This book allows their expertise to shine through on every page. It’s got expanded sections that go into way more depth than the first edition did. There’s a section on runs, one on interpreting prey remains, sign on the ground such as scrapes and beds, and much more. It’s chock full of good solid tracking information. The species accounts have been somewhat condensed, without losing their accuracy or detail. In fact, there is even more detail packed into each one. This was done by combining species that have similar sign, like large, medium and small ground squirrels. Each has its own section with measurements broken down by species within it. The descriptions were combined because of the similarity of the sign found. This allowed the authors to pack even more information into the book, which is awesome! If there are differences, they are pointed out in each account, so it’s super helpful to be able to compare across similar species. The sign chapters have been grouped together so you can compare similar things you find in the field easily. Find a run and want to know what animals could have made it? Go to that section and you have plenty to compare it too. Scratches on a tree? Scratches on the ground? Same thing. Here is a list of the chapters in order: Ch. 1 – Introduction Ch. 2 – Mammal Tracks and Track Patterns Ch. 3 – Runs, Paths, and Eskers Ch. 4 – Scats, Urine, and other Secretions Ch. 5 - Nests, Lodges and Other Constructions Ch. 6 – Sign on the Ground: Beds, Scrapes, Wallows, Digs, Burrows, and Dens Ch. 7 – Sign on Fungi, Herbaceous Plants, and Cacti Ch. 8 – Sign on Trees and Shrubs Ch. 9 – Interpreting Prey Remains Ch. 10 – Species Accounts The Species Accounts are incredibly detailed. Each one includes a drawing of the animal’s feet, and its tracks, and common gaits too. The track illustrations now include arrows pointing to key features of interest, and even lines to help one visualize the orientation of the toes. It’s just like how we use our fingers or nearby sticks in the field to look at these toe orientation features! (Trackers know about this!) Only now it’s in the book to help us see it better. Key features in the drawings are numbered and each number is referred to in the text description. Each species account includes the measurements and the descriptions, but they now also include all the details shown in the chapter headings above. That’s right! Each species account shows you all those details: Run, Paths, Eskers; and Sign on Fungi, Herbaceous Plants; Interpreting Prey Remains; and Scats, etc. etc. (All of those chapter headings are used in the species accounts to provide a very thorough look at the signs left by that animal.) All described right there in the species account! No more flipping through the book for the description of the scat or burrow. It’s described right there. The photos of the signs are grouped together in their respective sections so you can compare them. The detailed descriptions are now found in the species account. I like this arrangement much better. I think it will be even more helpful in the print edition than in the Kindle edition. More on that later. For example, here is an outline of the headings in a typical section of the Species Account chapter. -Tracks and Trails (measurements, images of tracks and gaits, etc.) -Notes -Runs, Paths, and Eskers -Scats, Urine, and other Secretions -Urine and Other Scent-Marking Behaviors -Sign on the Ground: Beds, Scrapes, Wallows, Digs, Burrows, and Dens -Sign on Trees and Shrubs -Interpreting Prey Remains For each species, this outline is customized. For example, some won’t have prey remains, some won’t have sign on grasses etc., some won’t make lodges or other constructions. Nicely organized and easy to use! One helpful thing I noticed in this edition is that some of the track photos are now labeled so you can see which foot is LF, LH, RF, RH. That’s super helpful, especially when you are first learning to tell them apart. The descriptions also help a lot with this. Many of the photos also include rulers or coins in them to provide scale. The other thing that I like is that each animal’s feet are shown in the account so you can see what features of the feet make what features of the track. Super helpful! Gait diagrams have been moved so they are next to each other where you can visually compare them easily. There are also photos of most of the gaits. Most of the journal-type writing and stories in the first edition have been removed to make room for just straight track and sign information. The stories were helpful and interesting, but not as helpful as the detailed accounts in this edition are. There are still some stories, but not as many. The ones used were chosen for their usefulness to describe a concept, it seems. There is a lot more research included in this edition too. There has, of course, been ongoing scientific research into many aspects of biology and tracking. This edition incorporates more of that information into the text. Recent studies are cited and their information included. Also, researchers, biologists, and other scientists are credited as such on the photos they donated to the project, which is nice. They deserve the credit for their work. Some really interesting new photos were included showing cool behaviors or just unique features. I love the photo where an otter rolled and left behind whisker marks! Specific Kindle parts of the review: Drawbacks to Kindle edition: the Kindle edition requires a Kindle and who is going to carry one into the field? Not me. Too much risk of getting it wet or damaged. I prefer a book for the field. (I bought both for this reason.) The Kindle edition loses the formatting that you have on a page. So, references to upper right corner of the page make no sense on a Kindle since all photos are inline and you just scroll to see them. As always with Kindle editions, there are some formatting errors. Pictures not right where the accompanying text indicates, etc. But, that’s a minor issue and users of Kindle are probably used to that in their books. For field guides, it can be annoying though. However, those are formatting issues and really not anything to do with the quality of the writing or the information contained within the book. So, if you can ignore some minor format issues, Kindle is fine. Otherwise, I’d recommend getting the paperback. Well, I recommend getting that either way, but if you want a copy on your Kindle, do like I did and buy one of each! I’ll admit that it’s something only us truly obsessed trackers do, so your mileage may vary. Ha! Good features of Kindle: You can highlight the text in different colors. My copy is already highlighted throughout in yellow, pink, orange and blue. Your highlights and page progress can be synced to the cloud so you don’t lose them. If you ever delete it off your Kindle, you can re-download it and your highlights will be there if you’ve synced it. You are allowed to put it on two different devices, in case you have two Kindles, you know. Or put it on Kindle and your laptop like I did. Sync them and your highlights and page progress are saved to both devices. On Kindle, you can also do keyword searches. So, if you want to look up a species, you can put in the name and find all instances in the book. The bad thing is, you have to spell the name right or search doesn’t work. Kindle also allows you to make your own notes in the text. These are hidden and you have to click to open a little window and read your notes. But it’s a useful feature to have. So, overall, I recommend this book 100% and five stars. Or should I say, five paws! If you are a tracker, biologist, naturalist, or just plain nature nerd, you need this book. Why is it not on your shelf yet? Just kidding. Buy this book. You won’t regret it. If you study it, you will become a better tracker. It’s full of the experience of two of the best trackers around, plus all the contributed experience of the other scientists, researchers, biologists, naturalists and trackers who contributed in the field. Hundreds of years of tracking experience is right here in your hands. It is 680 pages of the best information money can buy. Get it. You will not regret it. No buyer’s remorse here. It’s worth every penny!
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    Reviewed in the United States on July 24, 2019
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    cachkn46
    Omaha, US
    ★★★★★ 5
    A must have for the serious tracker!
    Format: Kindle
    8/23/19 Edit: Original review based only on Kindle version, but since receiving my paper copy, I've edited it throughout. Overall I am even more enthusiastic about it. I'm a bit of a dinosaur and rarely use Kindle and I found it harder to evaluate the book without paper pages to flip through. This is THE authoritative source for N. American mammal tracks & sign. What makes it (including 1st edn) special: 1. It is organized by type of sign rather than by species (but see below in "What's new"). This is terrific for when you've found some type of sign and can't narrow it down to a few species. Found a scat? Go to the section on scat and learn the appearance of scat left by different species so you can ID yours. 2. It's comprehensive (covers many species) and exacting (detailed measurements, meticulously researched). 3. Photos are large and clear enough to show what they intend to convey. 4. It has illustrations to help you grasp the salient features of tracks, but also photos that help you see how tracks and trails differ in different substrates. What's new in this 2nd edition: 1. There is a final chapter called "Species Accounts" and in each account, there are detailed illustrations of feet, and photos and illustrations of tracks and track patterns. The animal's other types of sign (runs, feeding sign, etc.) are summarized verbally. The photos of those other signs are all in the other relevant chapters, but references to figure numbers are given in the Species Accounts. These Species Accounts are a dramatic improvement over the 1st edn, in which they were part of the Tracks and Trails chapter, and did not usually mention other types of sign created by each animal. The Species Accounts in the 2nd edn make it much easier for the reader to get a coherent picture of each species, so this is a dramatic improvement. Essentially the book is still organized by sign, but the Species Accounts make it far easier to navigate. 2. I mentioned above the detailed illustrations of feet, but this deserves emphasis. These are great; it really helps to be able to correlate the foot anatomy to the the track. 3. It has many new photos, which are extremely clear and illustrate the points beautifully. 4. Range maps have been omitted. This is a negative, and I imagine it was done to save space. 5. The book is, overall, much more appealing to the eye, perhaps because it is better organized. I have to admit I thought the 1st edn was a bit awkward in its organization and I sometimes found it frustrating to flip through in search of something in particular....Not the case at all in the 2nd edn. While the species accounts now include summaries of other types of sign, they still do not provide an image of the animal, physical description, diet, breeding behavior, habitat, etc. This is not a criticism (you can't everything about mammals in one book), it is just to say that this book remains the top reference for the intermediate to advanced tracker, but not the best place for a beginner to start. If you're a beginning tracker and you don't already have a solid knowledge of each animal's appearance, range, and basic ecology, I suggest you first read one of the following, both of which are truly organized by species. 1. Camera Trapping Guide: Tracks, Sign and Behavior of Eastern Wildlife, by Janet Pesaturo -- Less comprehensive track & sign but has photos of each animals, sometimes with the animals in the act of creating the sign. It has range maps and much info on each species' ecology and behavior but not so much that it's overwhelming or unreadable. Focused on eastern US but most species also found in west. Yes, it's technically a camera trapping guide, but it's really about using track & sign knowledge to find animal hot spots (for good camera placement), so it's hugely helpful for trackers. I prefer this over Rezendes's Tracking and the Art of Seeing, which also focuses mostly on the East but has no range maps and has less about ecology and behavior. 2. The Tracker's Field Guide, by James Lowery -- Also less comprehensive than Elbroch's and MacFarland's tome, but for a tracking book it has very nice coverage of pertinent animal ecology. Focused mainly on western US but still useful for eastern US. Has both illustrations and photos, though admittedly some of the photos are a bit small or less than perfectly clear. Still, I consider it the best for the west among species by species tracking guides. If you're a serious tracker of any level, you'll find the 2nd edition of Mammal Tracks & Sign extremely useful. As you learn tracking, it won't be long before you find some kind of sign which you can't narrow down to a couple of species. In that case, a book organized by type of sign makes it quick and easy for you to narrow it down and probably determine exact species. And, there is simply no other tracking guide that's anywhere near as comprehensive as this one. The 1st edition has been one of the most useful books in my extensive natural history library, and I'm delighted to have this updated edition. A must-have for the serious tracker!
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    Reviewed in the United States on July 26, 2019
    A
    Verified Purchase
    Auntie J
    Cuba, US
    ★★★★★ 5
    Tons of info!
    Format: Paperback
    If one wanted to be a real tracker, this book has everything needed. I just want to be able to recognize the local wildlife tracks. But having all the rest of the info is nice, and it's easy to take what I want. The book is well organized. Fantastic pictures, loads of information. It's interesting too, to see just how much knowledge goes into figuring out not only what animal it is, but what sex, age, gait, etc it is. This is an awesome book.
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    Reviewed in the United States on January 18, 2025

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